On the Doorsteps of Giants

Posted: April 4, 2014 in Nepal

Day 6 (Himalaya to MBC)

Starting Elevation: 2920m

 

As the night was winding down on day #5, we were playing cards in our tea house with a couple of Nepali's when we heard a loud low rumbling noise. The noise was similar to the rumbling sound that thunder makes. It was an avalanche. Everyone rushed outside to see if they could spot it and we did. Lal pointed it out to me high on one of the mountains across the river from us. It lasted for about a minute before it petered out and our card game resumed. I remembered our guide mentioning avalanches but it was kind of something that was never mentioned again. Neither Meg or I realized that it was a concern.

 

The next morning we woke early and started the slow, incredibly steep climb to the next village called Deurali. It was snowing heavily which made visibility poor and it was quite a bit tougher to get proper footing as we climbed. After 2 hours we made Deurali and our guide Lal told us to come into the tea house for a rest and a cup of hot tea. He told us that we wouldn't be leaving the guesthouse until conditions improved because the risk of an avalanche was too high. Lal had done this trek more than a hundred times so we listened to every word he said.

 

 

After an hours wait, conditions had not improved much but Lal had devised a plan. He said that we would be joining another group and carrying on to MBC despite the weather. We made it perfectly clear that safety was a much bigger priority to us than finishing the hike and that if we had to turn around it wasn't the end of the world. He assured us that it would be safe. He instructed me to lighten my backpack and leave whatever contents that I could behind in Deurali at the tea house. I did so and we carried on.

 

The terrain changed dramatically almost instantly. Instead of a dirt path, we were walking only on snow and scattered rocks. Occasionally we would have to cross an emerald green stream on brown steel bridges.

 

A couple of times a loud crack was heard and our guide would survey the surrounding mountains before assuring us everything was ok and we could continue walking. After 3 hours of uphill walking, we finally made it to MBC (Machapuchre Base Camp) where there was now no danger of avalanches. Megan wants to add that this day was the most tired her legs had been all trip.

MBC guesthouse

 

The views were fantastic. We played a couple games of cards and retired to bed in anticipation of an early morning trek to ABC.

View from outside our room at night

 

Total trekking time today: 6 hours

 

Day 7 (MBC to ABC)

Starting Elevation: 3730m

The next morning we ate a handful of almonds and some fruit bars and started our hike to ABC. It was a clear, pristine morning and every time we took a step the snow would make that distinct crunching sound. It was a two hour uphill trek that traveled right between two mountains.

We were so excited that the pinnacle of our hike was so close. Finally we passed over a hill and we could see Annapurna Base Camp (ABC).

Megan said “I never actually thought we were going to finish it until I could see the end in sight”. The three of us met in a big hug at the top in celebration.

 

 

ABC elevation: 4130m

It really was something to see. It felt like being surrounded by giants.

Megan in front of a memorial erected for those killed climbing the surrounding mountains

Me with some Iranian friends I met during the trip. Well educated, nice people. Very interesting to talk politics with them.

Lal showing off

 

After an hour at the top we had a cup of hot tea and breakfast before starting our descent.

 

 

Oh, we also signed our respective country's flag at the top, as is tradition.

 

 

Now to start the descent. We were so energized from actually making it to ABC that we couldn't stop walking.

We just walked…..

Meg and Lal heading back down to MBC

 

And walked…..

 

 

And walked……..

 

Everywhere I went I walked..

 

We ended up walking for another 5 hours, making it all the way to the village of Dobhan. After a game of cards and an ice cold shower we hit the hay – exhausted.

 

Total trekking time today: 8 hours

 

Note: To the parents – we are safe and completely out of avalanche territory now. We are on our way back to Pokhara.

 

Comments
  1. Ian's avatar Ian says:

    The guys at the west hall are wondering why your not gonna bother climbing it?

  2. Donna's avatar Donna says:

    The pictures are just fantastic! You two look so happy and proud to have completed such a trek. Good on you! Enjoy the last couple of hiking days. Donna

    • Thanks #1 fan Donna. We only have two days of hiking left as we just arrived at our guesthouse for the night in Chomrong. It’s went by so fast. Your daughter was in power mode today. She flew up the steps leading to our guesthouse (3318 steps up to get to our guesthouse. Only took us 1.5 hours.)

  3. Janet's avatar Janet says:

    From # 2 fans, it all looks amazing. mom and I are proud of both of you. Opportunity of a life time. See you soon.

  4. Love the beard! Hard to really get a perspective but you’re doing a good job! Keep on…..

    • Ya megan is not as big of a fan of the beard as you are! Every time I walk by a barber here they try to get me to shave it off – not sure how I feel about getting a straight razor shave here. Might be a little less hygienic than GP.

  5. Neal's avatar Neal says:

    Nice work Jason and Megan. Your adventure looks amazing. Is this the start of a mountain climbing bug for you???? Maybe you will be back some day to summit. How’s the life straw working?

    • Every time I want to go travelling somewhere it will be hard not to come back here. Nepal has everything a traveller could want. I have already been wondering what trek we might do next – Megan loved the trekking. When we finished the ten days she wanted to do more! As for the life straw we actually didn’t take it on the trek. Our guide recommended that we use aquatabs instead which we did. They are super easy to use and very lightweight/small. I will use them every trip from now on.

  6. Donna's avatar Donna says:

    Hey Jason, I am having blog withdrawal. Do you think you could pick up the pace! Wanting to see more pics! Your # 1 fan

  7. Thanks for every other great post. Where else may anybody
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