Archive for the ‘Laos’ Category

Southern Laos on 2 Wheels!

Posted: January 29, 2012 in Laos, Southeast Asia

Apologies for the delayed blog folks (part of the reason is laziness and part is explosive Asian diarrehea.)

So much to say.  I guess I’ll start by saying that we were slightly underwhelmed by Luang Prabang (which we were thinking was going to be a highlight of our trip).  Partly because we were sick and partly because tourism had completely overrun what would be a stunningly beautiful little town.  Nonetheless we used our time wisely in Luang Prabang – playing cards, drinking coffee, and never straying more than 50 meters from the nearest toilet.  Yes, it was that bad.

Image

One productive thing we did manage to do was make our way 40 kilometres out of town to Kuang Si Waterfalls – they didn’t dissapoint.  The rope swing was the best part.

ImageImageImageImage

After Luang Prabang, it was time to head South to the Town of Pakse.  We had a one day layover in the capital of Laos – Vientiane.  We used our time to visit “COPE”, a place that builds prosthetic limb for Laotians who have lost limbs from UXO’s (unexploded bombs) or land mines.

A quick history lesson for those that don’t know how these bombs got there.  During the Vietnam War, Richard Nixon went bomb happy on Laos.  Why?  Because the North Vietnamese were transporting arms and troops through Laos.  So much so, that when it was all said and done, the US had dropped more bombs on Laos than the total number of bombs dropped by the US, UK, and Russia combined during WW2.  Wrap your head around that one.  The Laotians basically did nothing wrong. They were simply the victim of unfortunate geography (next door neighbors to Vietnam).  Now here’s the kicker – The American public had no idea that this bombing was occuring.  It was not sanctioned by congress – hence why it’s called “The Secret Bombing Of Laos”.

There are still thousands of tons of unexploded bombs laying around in Laos.  Out of all the bombs dropped, an estimated 30% of them still haven’t exploded and the Laos bomb squad has such poor resources that they will be clearing bombs well after the year 2050 at this pace.

To compound the problem, one of the only ways for rural Laotians to make money is to collect scrap metal.  Therefore, when someone stumbles up a 3 ton bomb in the forest, rather than report it to the proper authorities, they try to salvage the metal – which often ends in a deadly explosion.

Image

After our quick stopover in Vientiane, we booked a “sleeper bus” for our next leg of the journey to Pakse.  For those of you curious about what a sleeper bus may look like, here is a quick pic that we snapped from our bunk.

Image

Upon arrival in Pakse we formulated a plan to get us off the tourist trail for a few days.  We rented a motorbike and cruised the rural countryside for 3 days. 

Image

We biked 300+ km through some of the most secluded and remote areas in Laos.  In fact, we just got back a couple hours ago and we’re both BAGGED and looking forward to a cold beer and a good sleep.

The area we explored is better known as the Bolaven Plateau – Famous for its coffee plantations, waterfalls, and smiley faces.

Image

We quickly understood that our biggest obstacle would be avoiding the goats, pigs, chickens, and cattle that think that they own the road as much as the motorists do…..

Here are some of the sights we took in along the way…

ImageImage

Some of the places we stopped definitely didn’t see many tourists.  This picture was taken in the sleepy, riverside town of Sekong.  This girl acted like she hadn’t seen a white person before – maybe she hadn’t.

Image

We made a quick stop by UXO Sekong to see some of the progress they were making in clearing the local area of bombs.  Here are some of their recent findings.

Image

Megan snapped this picture from the back of the motorbike as we passed this farmer heading to market.

Image

In case you missed it, that’s a live goat strapped to the back of his motorbike.

ImageImage

Image

My morning bath.  Seriously.

Image

The owner of our guesthouse found a rather creative use for this bomb.

Images

Before finishing the trip, we stopped by a farmers coffee plantation to learn about the process of making coffee.  I never expected that it involved so much labour – gives a new perspective to the coffee I drink every morning.

Image

The children of the village gathered to stare at the “white people” as we learned coffee harvesting 101 from a local farmer of the village.

Image

That’s where we are now.  Sitting in an internet cafe in Pakse, waiting for leave on our motorbike at the break of day to explore the nearby temples of Champasak.

The End

 

 

That wasn't half bad...

 

That was all bad!

 

 

 

                                             DO HO HO HO HOHOHOHOHOHO!

Laos: Welcome To The Jungle

Posted: January 18, 2012 in Laos, Southeast Asia
Image

Meg and I with guesthouse owner "Nine"

After bidding farewell to the eccentric owners of The Green Tulip Guesthouse, we decided to book it for Laos by way of minivan.  We made the right decision.

 5 hours later we had arrived at the border – The Mekong River (below)

Image

 

Before we could stretch our legs from the long bus journey, we were on a long-tailed boat being shuttled across the Mekong river to the Laos border control.  In minutes, we had cleared customs and checked into our dump guesthouse for the night “The Friendship Guesthouse”.  Friendship guesthouse?  Who makes friends here? The guests and the cockroaches?  I digress.

 

Upon waking, we boarded a van full of French people heading for Louang Namtha, Laos.  One of them squawking at the van driver: “Allo?  Deed you know dis bus waz zupposed to live an hour ago?  Allo?  Maybe you deed not know that.”  Jackass.  My patience was growing ever thinner.  I had thoughts of asking him if he had an important business meeting in Northern Laos that he was running late for – and if so, where was his labtop and briefcase?  Sorry, I’m venting.

 

ONWARD AND UPWARD,  we have arrived in Louang Namtha.  We’ll pause now for a brief geographical lesson:

 

Image

As you can see, Louang Namtha is very close to the Chinese border – 50 km in fact.  The town market (called “The Chinese Market”) is full of Chinese merchants who make the trek over the border to peddle their respective product.

 

The difference from Thailand is immediately noticable.

 

Rolling Green hills of Jungle seem to go on forever, interupted only by the odd bamboo hut that breaks up the landscape.  On one side of the road, colorfully dressed women are scrubbing their daily washings in the river, on the other, an old woman and her young grandson are embraced in a tug o’ war, fighting to gain control of a large pig that seems to want none of their attention.  Children run beside the road in filthy clothes, and all around us families are building fires in front of their huts in preparation for dinner.

 

This is what travelling is supposed to look like.

ImageImage

Image

Settling in our new home was a breeze.  The helpful manager “Noo” helped us with our belongings into our riverside bamboo cottage.  Beautiful scenery and a comfortable, clean room had never looked so good (maybe because we had just left the “Friendship Guesthouse”).  By this point, Megan is getting used to the cold showers and I can hardly even detect a whimper from the shower room during her morning showers.

 

Later in the evening, the guesthouse owners invited Megan and I to join them in eating a more traditional style dinner – NOM NOM NOM.  The food was great.  A giant hot-pot was placed in the middle of the table and all types of meat were strewn over the center of the “pot”, while assorted veggies and noodles were placed in the nearly boiling moat around the edge of the dish.  Several Beer Lao later made the night a….

Imageas  Image

 

Our guesthouse, the Laos Hilton.

Image

Dinner must have went well, because we were invited to a Laos wedding the next day.  But I’ll leave that story for another time.

Here’s the pic of Meg and I before heading to the Laos wedding – The “after” pic did not quite look like this…….

Image

 

To celebrate our 3rd and final day in Louang Namtha, we hired a local guide to take us on a jungle trek and to meet some of the local ethnic villages.  This blog is getting lengthy so I won’t go into huge detail, but here are some of the highlights.

Image

Above: A rice grainary.  If you look close, the support are wrapped with slippery bamboo so the mice can’t get at the harvest.

ImageImage

 

Above:  Our guide slowly barbeques some fish for the lunch feast. 

ImageImage

Our guide “Gell” whittles a flute out of a bamboo shaft.

Image

Done!  8kms later.  Our buffet dinner at the “Banana Restaurant” will be well deserved tonight….

 

The road is beckoning again and Megan and I have chosen Southeast Asia to cure the travel bug.

Why?  It’s got everything.  The best street food in the world, banana pancakes…. nom nom nom, painful but good Thai massages, a culture that will leave you scratching your head (in a good way), a twisted history, scenery like something out of a Lord Of The Rings movie, insane traffic, muay thai kickboxing, the best (and cheapest) tailors in the world, great hostels, and better beer.

Our Plan?  Migrate 1500km from Bangkok, Thailand ——-> Saigon, Vietnam by train, plane, automobile, tuk tuk, and boat.

Image

Central Highlands, Vietnam

Bangkok, Thailand

                                          Bangkok, Thailand

Image

    Laos

Some interesting facts:

Thailand: 

65.5 million people

The worlds 2nd largest pickup truck market (after the US)

 3912 7-Elevens (basically one on every block)

Laos:  

5.6 million people

Communist

More bombs have been dropped on Laos than any other country on Earth (Mostly during Richard Nixons “Operation Menu” bombing campaign ’69-’70)

Vietnam:

86 million people

They drink Snake Wine – You heard right.  It’s rice wine with a pickled snake floating in it.

Home to the Vietnam War – or as the Vietnamese know it “The American War” 1955-1975 (3 million dead Vietnamese/58 thousand dead Americans)

Communist state with a steadily growing economy

We leave in 4 days!  Until then, stay classy Grande Prairie.

Image

Oh…… and clicking “sign me up” in the top left hand corner of this page will allow you to receive email notification every time I add a new post to this blog.  Simple as pie.